[Artemisia] Is modern raw silk period?

Willa - Rose yasmeena at juno.com
Thu Feb 5 11:56:19 CST 2004


Good Sir,

I get to work in one of the most exquisite fabric stores in the entire
NW... Caledonia Fine Fabrics (lucky me). I regularly handle silk and read
info from our suppliers about the weaves, grades, weights and how it is
made. On the topic of the history of this fabulous gift of nature, I have
not seen a reference to when this thing everyone calls raw silk came into
fame. I do know that it is actually called silk noil and I've been told
that it is an inferior product by silk industry standards, because the
fibers are short and inconsistent in strength. That's probably why it
doesn't hold up to laundering. The term raw silk makes it sound so
natural when, in fact, tussah could be considered the true raw silk.
Tussah is spun by wild silk worms and when woven looks natural in
color... also has a wide variety of slubs. I'll dig a little deeper and
see what I can find through these suppliers on the subject of weave types
per our period.

Yes, I launder my silk. I buy good charmeuses, organzas, georgettes,
chiffons, doupionis, shantungs, chinas and jacquards and they are still
freshly alive. Never use Woolite. Use a cleanser for delicate fabrics (I
get mine from our local Co-op) or shampoo. Silk worm spit is a protein
fiber like our own hair and modern shampoos are pH balanced to provide
gentle cleansing. I would recommend staying away from any fabric
softeners in the wash or in the first phase of drying. I pop mine into
the dryer for a 10 min tumble and then hang them to finish drying. If
they are too wrinkly at the very end of the drying phase I'll pop them
back into the dryer for 10 min. with a dryer sheet. One comment here on
laundering doupioni, it kind of reminds me of linen when laundered
because it looses its sheen and crispness, and puffs a bit (read this as
shrinking). However, it still remains strong under wear. Matkas, I am not
sure of.... no experience yet.

Does anyone out there know what doupioni is and how it gets its name?

Yasmeena, who enjoys sensuous silk





On Thu, 5 Feb 2004 09:43:37 -0800 (PST) "Chuck Heisler Jr."
<conradvz at yahoo.com> writes:
> Greetings Artemisia,
>  
> Would some of you textile experts tell me how period the modern 'raw 
> silk' is for use in garb and etc?  I'm not questioning the use of 
> silk, just trying to find out how period the modern versions are.
>  
> I look at it and I just don't know.  Of course I'm trying to compare 
> it to period illuminations, so its hard to tell.
>  
> Also, if you know any good textile history sites, would you share 
> those as well?  I'm desperately trying to advance my knowledge of 
> what modern fabrics are similar to period and which ones aren't.
>  
> Thank you and sincerely,
>  
> Conrad v. Z.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
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Mu'allemah (Mistress) Yasmeena bint al Ahlam, OP, Cd'O 
Minister of the Royal Stables of Artemisia
Companion to the Company of St. Anne 
http://lanceofstanne.homestead.com/yasmeena.html
An Interkingdom Mounted Military Company


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