[EKStationers] Thanks, and some info, (long)

Raffaella raffaella_dvpn at yahoo.com
Wed Mar 30 07:17:55 CST 2005


First, thanks for the info about bookboards and presses! We
were thinking about making a combo sewing stand/press like
one I found online, but I think 2 seperate tools would be
better. (and more authentic).

Speaking of authenticity, my dad happens to be a master
carpenter (i'm so lucky!)  And we had a long conversation
explaining about the wood, how it's cut, different tools,
etc. He recently researched historical methods, having
built an authentic medieval sea-captains chest for my
brother for his wedding gift :) So, I thought I'd share his
wisdom so that other newbies to bookcrafting, like myself,
can understand better what it is they need to get for
bookboards, etc. If you know this stuff, just hit the
delete key now :)

1st - Quarter sawn wood.  I had no clue what this was. 
Instead of a board being sawn into planks from top to
bottom, it is cut into quarters. What's the difference? The
grain of the wood. In quarter sawn wood, the grain is
straight, and less prone to warping. Others leave the curve
of the tree-rings in tact, and will bend with the curve.
Quarter sawn is expensive, because there is a lot of waste
-they ditch the outer curved, barky edges to get the
straight grain only. And it takes a bit more work to cut. 
But, as I said, it is stronger and won't warp over time.

2nd - How it's cut.  Did you know that different tools move
the wood grain different ways?  More modern circular saws
cut in one direction, and the wood tears/cuts in one
direction. Medieval saws were like 2-man logging saws, or a
2 man bow-saw with handles. The grain got pulled/cut in
both directions. Not a huge difference, but I gather there
is a difference in the finished product. Probably not so
important since you'd be covering the book board anyway,
but if you want to be uber-authentic it's good to know.

3rd - Planing/sanding.  This is important, if you want a
smooth, even board.  Direction is important. With your
larger planer, go one way, (say, top to bottom). Then the
opposite way with a smaller, finer planer. Then there is a
type of chisel used to smooth it more. (one way). Then go
the other way with sand paper. I'll have to ask him again
for the exact tools, and double check the process (i'll
post it here later).  That cross hatch is importanttho, to
both getting a smooth finish and keeping the board from
warping.

4th - Planers. Buyer beware!  Make sure you get a planer
for working on flat planks! There are tons of planers for
various jobs, molding, edges, grooves, chisel ended, etc. 
Talk to your helpful hardware man before buying. And don't
go cheap. The better the planer, the easier it will be to
do your work. A good planer will require very little
pressure to use. And keep you're tools clean and sharp. Get
someone to teach you the proper angle for sharpening. It
isn't hard to do, but the angle is important.

Hope that is helpful to those just getting started, I know
it was for me! And I will get the exact info on
sanding/planing later today. And ask him about period
drills for making the holes for sewing.

YIS,
Raffaella







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