[Artemisia] Is modern raw silk period?

[julia.jackman-brink]

Chuck Heisler Jr. wrote:

> Greetings Artemisia,

Hey You! :)

> Would some of you textile experts tell me how period the modern 'raw 
> silk' is for use in garb and etc?  I'm not questioning the use of silk, 
> just trying to find out how period the modern versions are.

I would venture to say that what we can buy these days is representative 
of a "type" of woven fabric that could and may have been available in 
Europe in various timeperiods depending on the culture involved. Eastern 
Europe probably saw more than Western Europe until trade opened up. 
Given the materials, time and impetus, some of the more talented SCAers 
could theoretically recreate a fabric that would have the same look and 
feel as modern "raw silk".  I suspect there are also others who could 
recreate the finer silk fabric types as well. So I would say yes, in 
some cases it is an acceptable substitute.

> I look at it and I just don't know.  Of course I'm trying to compare 
> it to period illuminations, so its hard to tell.

Alot of how period a textile is for you depends on where your persona is 
located. What access did your culture have to the trade routes?  Some 
cultures had more access to the fabrics than others, others probably 
never saw it.

When looking at modern fabrics, we also tend to deal with the mundane 
perception of "period fabrics were loose weave, only certain colors, or 
heavy or...."  There were all fabric types out there from homespun to 
commercial loom woven. Again it depended on where you were on the trade 
route and what your local source could get for you. We also have to 
realize that when dealing with modern fabrics we are also dealing with 
"modern definitions" on those textiles. What one seller calls raw silk, 
may in period (again defined by time and space) be called something else 
or in fact be a better class of fabric than the modern definition portends.

With paintings, you have to deal with the fact that it is the artist's 
interpretation of what he/she is seeing. We can infer that a subject is 
wearing X type of cloth but can we really tell? Not really. It's a make 
your best guess scenario unless you have a period reference that 
substantiates it. Elizabeth I's wardrobe records list gowns she was 
painted in, that's a pretty good double check. It's harder with more 
obscure pieces.

For me, archaeological databases and research books/sites are your 
friend.  Looking at the basic time period you want, look at the fabrics 
that were being produced (and where)at that time. It may or may not be 
represenative of your specific place but it would show you what was out 
there. If I had more information on exactly what you were looking for I 
could send more detail on resources. Hazards of living in an academic 
library.

Wow, that was deep...wonder where that came from. I'll be at the War if 
people want to continue this thread or theorize in person. :)

Juliana
Archaeology and Textile Geek