[Artemisia] Is modern raw silk period?

[Ellen Stavash]

Well, I've never found any evidence that what most Artemisians call "raw silk" (silk noil) was ever imported to Europe.  I suspect that the leftovers from silk reeling, as well as broken or wild cocoons, were spun into an irregularly textured cloth for domestic use, just as is done in villages throughout Asia today (why waste good strong fiber?) but I don't think it was ever considered to be a trade good.  If anyone out there has evidence to the contrary, I'm eager to hear it.  

I believe the other type of "raw silk", which is actually smooth reeled silk that hasn't had the sericin (natural glue) removed, is period, although I don't remember sources offhand.  This is a smooth, stiff fabric that has no resemblance to the bumpy silk noil, but in most textile literature, it is referred to as raw, or undegummed.  

Personally, I still use silk noil a lot, because I like its weight and drape.  I use it as a substitute for the very fine wools that were worn in our period, but which are now more expensive than the silk.  That doesn't mean it's authentic, though.  

As far as textile websites go, I don't know of any with a good overview.  I'm hoping that others on the list will come up with some good ones, because I'm eager to check them out.  I've run across more specific ones, though, such as Viking textiles and the Fustat textiles (Medieval Egyptian and Indian printed cottons), but I don't have them bookmarked anymore.

Good luck,
Ellen

----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Heisler Jr.
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 10:48 AM
To: Kingdom of Artemisia mailing list
Subject: RE: [Artemisia] Is modern raw silk period?  

Greetings Artemisia,

Would some of you textile experts tell me how period the modern 'raw silk' is for use in garb and etc?  I'm not questioning the use of silk, just trying to find out how period the modern versions are.

I look at it and I just don't know.  Of course I'm trying to compare it to period illuminations, so its hard to tell.

Also, if you know any good textile history sites, would you share those as well?  I'm desperately trying to advance my knowledge of what modern fabrics are similar to period and which ones aren't.

Thank you and sincerely,

Conrad v. Z.




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